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Access: From Kukke Subramanya
Duration: 2 days:
Distance: 14 KM Trek one way
Difficulty level: Strenuous
Permission: Required from forest check post. Need to take from the midway of the trek near Bhtru mane.
Night Halt Option: Only Bhatru Mane or forest check post (No formal procedure only request basis)
Food: Bhatru Mane
Water: Bhatru mane or stream water
Best Time: Dec-Jan
Must Carry:
1. Sleeping Bag
2. Water bottle
3. Energy Food
4. Hat
5. Protection from leaches
When I had put the backpack on my shoulder, the first thought came to my mind, it is a pathetic decision. It was a Friday night and beginning of Final weekend before my week long vacation. Before getting back to work on Monday, going to Kumara Parvathe trek did not seem to be good idea at all, definitely at that moment at least. Though it was in my bucket list since long and already have tried to climb the peak from other side, came back in between as my wife fell sick. If I ever had to do it, this was the moment. My in-laws were here and I can safely leave my wife behind at home . So I booked the program with BMC (Bangalore Mountaineering Club). I believe it deserves some explanation. Why BMC? Why not alone, when specifically I always prefer the later one...
Reason behind selecting BMC
- Kumar Parvatha is the toughest trek in South India and this guys are doing it almost regularly
- BMC is quite professional . I like their attitude. They made it a business and they don't even hide it. I have already experienced one night trek with them
- This time I was alone. I will get some company.
4. It is 14KM long trek. You need to have a night stay. Unlike Himalaya treks in North India, it does not have any trekkers hut except Bhatramane. BMC definitely could arrange it smoothly, particularly for people like me who doesn't speak the local language.
So I finally started with a heavy backpack. BMC has pickup point near Domlur, New Shanti Sagar Hotel. This time they arrived on time. It was a week just after the Diwali. For all obvious reasons, rush was very less. In fact multiple time BMC tried to convince me to change my plan to Kodachandri Trek. I was surprised to see 5 more people accompanying me. Because of less participation BMC provided a tavera . Tavera for 6+ 1 (Guide) +1 (Driver) was quite uncomfortable. Anyway I had already made up my mind in "Lets get it done" mode. We left Domlur around 9:45 PM, took to Bangalore Mangalore highway via Neelamangala--hassan--
Finally we reached Kuke Subramaniya around 5:00 AM. BMC has managed one shelters in Kukke for freshening up. It was very basic and I can bet, sun light has never seen this room since the construction. Anyway I have just used the rest room and was feeling quite excited within for the trek. It was almost 3 years long plan for me . I have told you before I have even tried to climb this same peak from different route. OK, if this confuses you let me put the whole story.
Kumara Parvathe/ Pushapagiri
Kumara Parvathe is inside Pushpagiri Wild Life Sanctuary . Now you can reach this peak from 2 sides. 1. Somwarpet Side Bidali check post. From here trek is about 7 KM .. you will reach pushpagiri peak and then Kumara Parvathe. 2. Kuke Subramaniya Side. This trek is of the length 14 KM. You have to cross multiple peaks including Sesha parvathe before reaching Kumara Parvathe. This time we were trying route number 2.
We have started around 6:30AM. Had some breakfast in Kukke town. As one of the important pilgrim place in Karnataka, town was already in full of life by then. BTW you can find multiple good hotels in Kukke. From Kukke town the actual starting point is around 1 KM . We have walked till the distance. Just after the starting point, it throws you the real difficulty .. so that we don't complain later on :). Let me share one graphic regarding this. I've taken it from Internet. Copyright obviously belongs to the original creator. Though the scaling is not right here.
First stretch :Till Bhatru mane(6-7 KM)
First stretch can be divided into 2 part. First part is dense forest. It is constant high slope here. But you have excellent forest cover. Philosophy is simple, just climb up without much thinking :). Only after climbing 3-4 KM ,you will get some viewpoints. You can see the Kuke city from there. We were 7 people hiking. 5 of them have gone ahead. I should not lie, saying i was taking my time to enjoy serenity . Reason was simple that, I was not able to cope up with the physical exertion. So we poor 2 people left. Other person is an architect must be at his late 30's. I respect his enthusiasm. He was only interested in photography and made it clear that his target is till Bhatru mane. So I was left alone
I was not as fast as first few guys and definitely can't afford to go along with Mr Architect. Anyway walking alone through those dense forest is an excellent metal exercise. Which is well proven for me already. Once you start seeing things with little detachment you get much nicer view of the whole story. That is how these weekend trips always helps me. For me travel is not relaxation. It is more like a meditation ..a search for something.
Anyway as you move further, slowly forest will start getting thicker. Then you can expect Bhatru Mane is near by . This is where you will get the first glimpse of your second half assignment. I was thinking the mountain I can see now is Kumar Parvatahe, but I was wrong. You can't see Kumar Parvathe till very end of your Trek. That mountain you can see from here is Sesha Parvathe . Even to get there from Bhatru Mane, you have to cross 2 more hill top.
By 11:00 I reach Bhatru Mane ...
Bhatru mane: This is interesting place. A small hut but having most of the facility. Most importantly it is extremely clean. Mr Bhatru is is staying there. Providing some very basic food , water, rest room and stay with some cost. I have not paid anything as it was already taken care by BMC. So I am not going to quote the amount here. But it is a good amount. with respect to the facility it provides. Even in that weekend around 50+ trekkers were there. Considering the number and facility he provide he must be running at good profit .
Though I had a good debate about it after coming back to office. The logic mostly people put up in his favor is, he has to carry everything from ground. He has a boy for the jobs . That boy climbed along side us. But same is the case is Kedarnath... must be little more difficult than Kumara Parvathe. For instance any himalayan trekking route has multiple trekkers hut. Not sure even after so many days how Bhtrru able to remain alone without any competition .
I have absolutely no complain about the facility he provide. Only point is, don't ask me to buy the logic that, he is doing it voluntarily.
After reaching there I have freshen up. Launch was ready by then. launch is Rice,Sambar and pickle. If you have plan to go further on that same day, you should seriously utilize every second here. You can charge your mobile. Yes he has electricity. But the most beautiful thing is, you can leave your extra luggage here and carry exactly what you need further.
Last stretch :Bhatru mane to KP Peak(7-8 KM)
This is the most strenuous part which makes Kumar parvathe , one of the most toughest trek in south india. Though you have kept your luggage in Bhatru mane , you can't ignore the fact that, you have covered already 6-7 KM in high slope. Along with that, it is race against the time. We have started from bhatru Mane around 12PM. Target was to reach the peak by 4 and then stat descending back to Bhatru Mane. This is long stretch. Mostly can be segmented into 3 parts.
1. From Bhatru Mane to Mantapa : After Bhatru Mane, stench is quite plane for half km. Here you need to take forest department permission. BMC has managed that. Then you will cross view points. It was scorching sun. Vegetation was almost gone. It was a grassland. Around 12 -o clock in the noon , that was seriously tough. Exhaustion rate was much faster. Then slowly slope started rising. I was carrying a 600ml water. Bottle was quite empty. By the time I have walked one more km, I was running out of water. Thankfully our guide Prasanna from BMC has shown some stream water and we have refiled. This must be the most crucial decision I have taken in that entire trek, After that you have no more source of water.
2. Mantapa to Sesha Parvathe: Mantapa is basically a old structure. You will get some shade here. This is the foot hill of Sesha Parvathe. From here it is strip climb to Sesha paraveth. Here the group splitted again. Mr architect has left behind .. Though he has started from Bhatru mane but decided to stop and go back from the water falls. I have joined by 2 more guys.
Our guide Prasnna along with 2 most enthusiastic people left us behind. Latter on I came to know, even for Prasnna this was only second time he is in KP and his first attempt was failure. He was even excited for successful climb this time. So me, Kush and Harsh, we 3 were slowly climbing up. I could not believe my self that I had to cross Sesha Parvathe . My body was almost giving up only mental strength was pulling it. The sun makes it even more difficult.
3. Sesha Parvathe to KP peak: When we reach the peak of Sesha Parvathe it was 3-o clock. Sun was settling down but confusion was arising among us. We 3 were still together, but there was no sign of Prasanna and other 2 guys. People coming from other side was giving conflicting opinion. Question was simple, "how much left?". Answer was varying from 45min- to 2 hours journey.
I could see, we all are tried and confused. Some how this is where the first time I took charge of it. I was getting my strength back, may be it was all mental determination and weather was little cooling down. My decision was simple. I will climb till my body permits and will definitely take Kush and Harsh along. Only worry was, if by then Prasanna complete the journey and start climbing down. Then he will ask us also to climb down along with him.
From Sesha Parvathe you have to climb down little bit and then climb back again. Here some forest is present. Time was around 4 . There was a monolithic rock. I just have scroll though the rock. I have done it before in Savandurga. Kush and harsh was taking some round route. At the end of that rock, route will get splitted. We can see the way to Pushpagiri peak. You have to climb little further for KP. We had some confusion. Somehow our simplistic approach was working. Lets climb till the very high point we can see. By then we have reach the peak, we could see Prasanna and other 2 there. It was the peak. Finally I am there, after long 3 years of wait and count less plan.
After spending some time in the peak we have started climbing down. On the way we got to see a beautiful sunset. When we reach Bhatru mane , it was evening and dark. Surpassingly our trek was not over then .. We had our dinner there. But as all the place were filled up there, we had climb little up agin till forest office in the night and slept there. This is why you need BMC. only they can manage that. Though it was very basic accommodation on floor but the guys were very nice. They have provided mat. Room was quite clean. I had good sleep in the night.
Next day after Breakfast in Bhatru mane. we have climbed down to Kukke by 10 AM. Had some bath in river water. Around 11 AM started for Bangalore .
Kumara Parvathe is inside Pushpagiri Wild Life Sanctuary . Now you can reach this peak from 2 sides. 1. Somwarpet Side Bidali check post. From here trek is about 7 KM .. you will reach pushpagiri peak and then Kumara Parvathe. 2. Kuke Subramaniya Side. This trek is of the length 14 KM. You have to cross multiple peaks including Sesha parvathe before reaching Kumara Parvathe. This time we were trying route number 2.
We have started around 6:30AM. Had some breakfast in Kukke town. As one of the important pilgrim place in Karnataka, town was already in full of life by then. BTW you can find multiple good hotels in Kukke. From Kukke town the actual starting point is around 1 KM . We have walked till the distance. Just after the starting point, it throws you the real difficulty .. so that we don't complain later on :). Let me share one graphic regarding this. I've taken it from Internet. Copyright obviously belongs to the original creator. Though the scaling is not right here.
First stretch :Till Bhatru mane(6-7 KM)
First stretch can be divided into 2 part. First part is dense forest. It is constant high slope here. But you have excellent forest cover. Philosophy is simple, just climb up without much thinking :). Only after climbing 3-4 KM ,you will get some viewpoints. You can see the Kuke city from there. We were 7 people hiking. 5 of them have gone ahead. I should not lie, saying i was taking my time to enjoy serenity . Reason was simple that, I was not able to cope up with the physical exertion. So we poor 2 people left. Other person is an architect must be at his late 30's. I respect his enthusiasm. He was only interested in photography and made it clear that his target is till Bhatru mane. So I was left alone
I was not as fast as first few guys and definitely can't afford to go along with Mr Architect. Anyway walking alone through those dense forest is an excellent metal exercise. Which is well proven for me already. Once you start seeing things with little detachment you get much nicer view of the whole story. That is how these weekend trips always helps me. For me travel is not relaxation. It is more like a meditation ..a search for something.
Anyway as you move further, slowly forest will start getting thicker. Then you can expect Bhatru Mane is near by . This is where you will get the first glimpse of your second half assignment. I was thinking the mountain I can see now is Kumar Parvatahe, but I was wrong. You can't see Kumar Parvathe till very end of your Trek. That mountain you can see from here is Sesha Parvathe . Even to get there from Bhatru Mane, you have to cross 2 more hill top.
By 11:00 I reach Bhatru Mane ...
 |
| Dense forest at the beginning of the trek |
 |
| Almost near Bhatru Mane.. Glimpse of Sesha parvathe |
Bhatru mane: This is interesting place. A small hut but having most of the facility. Most importantly it is extremely clean. Mr Bhatru is is staying there. Providing some very basic food , water, rest room and stay with some cost. I have not paid anything as it was already taken care by BMC. So I am not going to quote the amount here. But it is a good amount. with respect to the facility it provides. Even in that weekend around 50+ trekkers were there. Considering the number and facility he provide he must be running at good profit .
Though I had a good debate about it after coming back to office. The logic mostly people put up in his favor is, he has to carry everything from ground. He has a boy for the jobs . That boy climbed along side us. But same is the case is Kedarnath... must be little more difficult than Kumara Parvathe. For instance any himalayan trekking route has multiple trekkers hut. Not sure even after so many days how Bhtrru able to remain alone without any competition .
I have absolutely no complain about the facility he provide. Only point is, don't ask me to buy the logic that, he is doing it voluntarily.
After reaching there I have freshen up. Launch was ready by then. launch is Rice,Sambar and pickle. If you have plan to go further on that same day, you should seriously utilize every second here. You can charge your mobile. Yes he has electricity. But the most beautiful thing is, you can leave your extra luggage here and carry exactly what you need further.
Last stretch :Bhatru mane to KP Peak(7-8 KM)
 |
| Trek started from Bhatru mane.. Obviously I am lagging behind |
This is the most strenuous part which makes Kumar parvathe , one of the most toughest trek in south india. Though you have kept your luggage in Bhatru mane , you can't ignore the fact that, you have covered already 6-7 KM in high slope. Along with that, it is race against the time. We have started from bhatru Mane around 12PM. Target was to reach the peak by 4 and then stat descending back to Bhatru Mane. This is long stretch. Mostly can be segmented into 3 parts.
- From Bhatru Mane to Mantapa.
- Mantapa to Sesha Parvathe.
- Sesha Parvathe to KP peak.
 |
| At the foot hill of Sesha Parvathe |
1. From Bhatru Mane to Mantapa : After Bhatru Mane, stench is quite plane for half km. Here you need to take forest department permission. BMC has managed that. Then you will cross view points. It was scorching sun. Vegetation was almost gone. It was a grassland. Around 12 -o clock in the noon , that was seriously tough. Exhaustion rate was much faster. Then slowly slope started rising. I was carrying a 600ml water. Bottle was quite empty. By the time I have walked one more km, I was running out of water. Thankfully our guide Prasanna from BMC has shown some stream water and we have refiled. This must be the most crucial decision I have taken in that entire trek, After that you have no more source of water.
 |
| View of Mantapa.. While climbing sesha parvathe |
2. Mantapa to Sesha Parvathe: Mantapa is basically a old structure. You will get some shade here. This is the foot hill of Sesha Parvathe. From here it is strip climb to Sesha paraveth. Here the group splitted again. Mr architect has left behind .. Though he has started from Bhatru mane but decided to stop and go back from the water falls. I have joined by 2 more guys.
Our guide Prasnna along with 2 most enthusiastic people left us behind. Latter on I came to know, even for Prasnna this was only second time he is in KP and his first attempt was failure. He was even excited for successful climb this time. So me, Kush and Harsh, we 3 were slowly climbing up. I could not believe my self that I had to cross Sesha Parvathe . My body was almost giving up only mental strength was pulling it. The sun makes it even more difficult.
 |
| Crossed Sesha Parvathe... Almost at the last stretch.. overlooking the path already covered |
3. Sesha Parvathe to KP peak: When we reach the peak of Sesha Parvathe it was 3-o clock. Sun was settling down but confusion was arising among us. We 3 were still together, but there was no sign of Prasanna and other 2 guys. People coming from other side was giving conflicting opinion. Question was simple, "how much left?". Answer was varying from 45min- to 2 hours journey.
I could see, we all are tried and confused. Some how this is where the first time I took charge of it. I was getting my strength back, may be it was all mental determination and weather was little cooling down. My decision was simple. I will climb till my body permits and will definitely take Kush and Harsh along. Only worry was, if by then Prasanna complete the journey and start climbing down. Then he will ask us also to climb down along with him.
From Sesha Parvathe you have to climb down little bit and then climb back again. Here some forest is present. Time was around 4 . There was a monolithic rock. I just have scroll though the rock. I have done it before in Savandurga. Kush and harsh was taking some round route. At the end of that rock, route will get splitted. We can see the way to Pushpagiri peak. You have to climb little further for KP. We had some confusion. Somehow our simplistic approach was working. Lets climb till the very high point we can see. By then we have reach the peak, we could see Prasanna and other 2 there. It was the peak. Finally I am there, after long 3 years of wait and count less plan.
After spending some time in the peak we have started climbing down. On the way we got to see a beautiful sunset. When we reach Bhatru mane , it was evening and dark. Surpassingly our trek was not over then .. We had our dinner there. But as all the place were filled up there, we had climb little up agin till forest office in the night and slept there. This is why you need BMC. only they can manage that. Though it was very basic accommodation on floor but the guys were very nice. They have provided mat. Room was quite clean. I had good sleep in the night.
 |
| WHat does it takes to reach KP?? A team :) |
Next day after Breakfast in Bhatru mane. we have climbed down to Kukke by 10 AM. Had some bath in river water. Around 11 AM started for Bangalore .
 |
| WHile climbing down, Prasanna is enjoying sunset |
4 comments:
Hi, we went last weekend and we could't make it Because other start feeling sick(give up). they are given option to go further but i refused because I was the one how motivated them.
The article was so informative.
thank you for sharing experience.
Fantastic, you kind of took me through the route, where are you in the picture? Thanks a lot.One thing I observe that BMC helped only to get permission, rest was your effort. Great going
@Guruprasad Thanks .. enjoying the route only does matter.. at least for me. I don't climb to conquers something rather it is like meditation. So believe you did the correct thing.
@MMP NAIDU Thanks for the encouraging words. In the group photo I am with green t-shirt. The most odd looking guy :) . You know there always one to spoil group photo and most of the time it is me
We are set to do this week end. Our ultimate goal is Everest Base Camp
Thank you for a preview and preparing us for what to expect from BMC
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